A Study on Discomposition Expressed in the Contemporary Fashion

현대패션에 나타난 탈구성현상 고찰

Jacques Derrida took off the self-contradiction of structuralism and built up a theory so called "Deconstruct". By issuing a series of papers which strongly criticized the existing western philosophy, he drew into 'strangers' alienated and deconstructed the methodology of structuralism by getting out of the antagonistic thought attaching great importance to Logos. Discomposition is realized by exposing the ex-structural elements existed inside of structuralism, and is an open philosophy recognizing the dignity and freedom of an individual than the general structure in the methodology of structuralism. Discomposition is a theory for criticizing the conservative thought frame traditional western philosophy, and deconstruct as a method of criticism persists a new epistemology by questioning to all texts including a text of tradition and deconstructing these texts. The contemporary fashion in 1990's shows the discompositive appearances with the different form. textile print and color. By the analysis according to the deconstruct process, the characters of discompositive fashion are undecidability decentring, disorder, and dislocation. Many designers like Martin Margiella, Alexander Mcqueen, and Ann Demeulemeester express these characters on their fashion. The result of this process, the characters of discompositive design can be classified matamorphosis, harmony of the disharmony and coexistence of the ambivalence.bivalence.

탈구현상은 허구, 추상, 부재, 변형의 의미를 부각시키며 틀에 박힌 고정관념을 없애고 새로운 미의식을 추구하는 것이다. 이러한 현상은 1990년 이후 현대 패션에서 다양하게 전개되는데 마틴 마지엘라나 앤 드뮬리미스터, 레이 카와쿠보 등의 작품에서 잘 찾아 볼 수 있다. 이들의 작품은 변형과 왜곡, 부조화의 조화, 그리고 양면가치가 공존하는 미적인 특성을 지니고 있는데 이것은 미의 다양한 해석을 가능하게 하며 주관적인 미의식의 근거를 마련한다.