A Study on Korean Man's Head Ornaments in the Joseon Dynasty - Focusing on Pungjam and Kwanja -

조선시대 남자(男子)의 수식(首飾) 연구(II) - 풍잠(風簪)과 관자(貫子)를 중심(中心)으로 -

  • 장숙환 (이화여자대학교 의류학과)
  • Received : 2009.12.01
  • Accepted : 2010.02.19
  • Published : 2010.06.30

Abstract

This thesis is about "manggon" that holds down man's top knot hair and its accessaries "pungjam", "kwanja". manggon was seen first time in the mural of Donwhang kae won chon bo during T'ang period (713-756). The "Tu Aek Ra" manggon shown in this mural would be the origin and beginning of maggon's usage. Also the "Sha" that was placed on top of the hair for decoration purpose is believed to be a former form of "manggon" Before the short hair cut was enforced, wearing the "kwan"(head gear) was considered as an impotant etiguette. Thus the head gear was treasured and the manggon which was the most essential piece to cover down the hair before to put on the head gear was regarded as the most important piece. However, since the manggon was tied very tightly around the forehead, manggon caused some sickness. From my private collections of man's head gears and ornament, 121 items were selected and used for analysis and the followings were found: 1. Pungjam was divided into 8 categories according to its shape and a research was made on its unique structural characteristic on each categories. 2. Kwanja's material and design that were used are all in accordance to the historical recordings.

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