The Analysis of Pattern Components of Brassiere and Study on Its Making

브래지어의 패턴 구성요소 분석 및 제작법 연구

The purpose of this study is to offer basic data for designing and making of brassiere with the consideration of the physiological nature of man. Each of 3/4-cup wired upward-support-type Mold Bra of 75 size with basic pad made at three representative domestic companies (A, B and C Company) was selected for analysis of pattern and components. The following is the result of this study. 1. That Company A's bra had the highest cup, relatively narrow width, the widest front-center and the highest front center at front pad. That of Company B had relatively short wing over the base and much difference at the height of cup depending on the presence of wire. That of Company C had low and wide cup, the widest bust span and the front center width, the front center height of front pad, the base length of front pad and the length of wings were observed to be of the figures between those of Company A and B. 2. The Bra of Company A had the biggest front center angle of $6^{\circ}$, while that of Company C had the biggest wing angle of $18^{\circ}$. The Bra of Company B showed the biggest difference of patterns depending on the presence of wire. Those of Company A and C showed very similar shape when wire was inserted. 3. The order of making brassiere is following: making of exterior mold cup${\rightarrow}$ sewing exterior cup and circumference of mold${\rightarrow}$ sewing base and wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing binding tape to base${\rightarrow}$ sewing cup and main pad${\rightarrow}$ sewing binding tape to upper sides and upper part of wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing wire-tape to interior base of cup${\rightarrow}$ inserting of wire inside wire-tape${\rightarrow}$ sewing hook & eye on the back of wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing shoulder string.