Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association (한국의상디자인학회지)

Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association (한국의상디자인학회)
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Characteristics of Neo-deconstruction expressed in the Jacquemus fashion collection

자크뮈스 패션 컬렉션에 표현된 신-해체주의 특성

  • Yoo, Song Joo (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Hanyang University) ;
  • Lee, Younhee (Major in Human-Tech Convergence, Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Hanyang University)
  • 유송주 (한양대학교 의류학과) ;
  • 이연희 (한양대학교 의류학과 휴먼테크융합전공)
  • Received : 2021.10.04
  • Accepted : 2021.11.18
  • Published : 2021.12.30
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Abstract

The purpose of this study was to observe the expressive characteristics of Neo-Deconstruction design, examine the expressive characteristics of Neo-Deconstruction design in the collections of Jacquemus, and analyze their internal meanings. For research, observations were made based on the concepts and expressive characteristics of Deconstruction through prior research and literary review, and analysis was conducted focusing on the expressive characteristics of Neo-Deconstruction. The scope of analysis included a total of 605 photographs collected from a total of 17 season collections of Jacquemus from the 2013 S/S to the 2021 S/S season. The results are as follows. First, the Neo-Deconstruction of Jacquemus expresses the youth culture using bright images such as diverse colors and patterns with 'positive playfulness' and pass on positive messages with deconstructive and playful forms, such as exaggeration and reduction and recombination and reconstitution. Second, with tendencies of 'symbolic receptivity', Jacquemus gained inspiration from his own life, memories, and hometown, and attempted to express the street women of places such as southern France, Paris, and Monaco in a number of collections. Also, he proposed designs that can be worn easily by anyone, regardless of gender, and as plus size models began to become more common respect was given to the tastes and preferences of diverse individuals without distinctions based on body type or sexuality. Third, 'geometric simplicity' was generally expressed by pursuing simple and practical fashion with the addition of details, such as geometric forms including stripes or asymmetrical expressions centering around everyday material that is used in clothing. Fourth, with "open communication," Jacquemus constructed his identity by addressing the various needs of consumers based on social network services and continuously sharing his creative ideas with the public. He is gaining popularity in a unique way by responding quickly to the changing atmosphere of society.

Keywords

Acknowledgement

본 논문은 한양대학교 교내연구지원사업으로 연구되었음(HY-2020).

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