Science of Emotion and Sensibility (감성과학)

Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility (한국감성과학회)
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Historical Differences Between Khanbok and Hanfu: White Leather Belts, Pleats, and Hats

한복에서 나타난 한푸와의 역사적 차이점 분석: 흰 가죽띠, 주름, 관모를 중심으로

  • 김지수 (인하대학교 의류디자인학과) ;
  • 나영주 (인하대학교 의류디자인학과)
  • Received : 2024.11.14
  • Accepted : 2024.12.11
  • Published : 2025.03.31
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Abstract

This study analyzes the differences between Khanbok and Hanfu by examining their historical significance, variations in the fastening direction of the Jeogori, and traditions related to pleated skirts, waist belts, and hats. This study performs a literature review of ancient clothing, incorporates excavation data, and collects data on historical garments, related records, previous research papers, and books on clothing history. Additionally, a survey of museum artifacts is conducted using visual materials. The findings on the origins of Khanbok based on the literature review are as follows. First, Khanbok maintained a left-over-right closure style until the Goguryeo period, a characteristic unique to people who ride horses. Additionally, bronze buttons, which were found exclusively in Korea during this period, were a distinctive feature of Khanbok. Second, the 'Sin offering' tradition of wearing white belts among men during the Three Kingdoms period persisted throughout subsequent generations. Historical records show that envoys in Goguryeo and individuals from Japan's Asuka and Nara periods also wore white belts. Third, Khanbok's pleated skirts featured a wide and voluminous silhouette. In contrast, garments worn by noble families during the Han and Song Dynasties were slim-fitting and lacked volume. Fourth, Khanbok is characterized by a variety of hats, which seems to have originated from the Dangun tradition of wearing hat with braid hair. In summary, Khanbok embodies a cultural heritage inherited and developed since ancient times, reflecting the aesthetic orientation and social identity of Koreans.

본 연구는 한복과 한푸의 역사적 의미, 저고리의 여밈 방향, 주름 치마, 허리띠, 모자와 관련된 전통을 조사하여 차이점을 분석하였다. 고대 의복에 대한 문헌 검토를 수행하고 발굴 데이터를 통합하며 역사적 의복, 관련 기록, 선행 연구 논문 및 의복 역사에 대한 서적에 대한 데이터를 수집하고, 박물관 유물에 대한 조사를 수행하였다. 첫째, 한복은 삼국시대까지 좌임을 유지했으며, 이는 말을 타는 사람들에게 유리한 특징이었다. 또한 이 시기 발견되는 청동 단추는 한복의 특징이다. 둘째, 삼국 시대에 남성들 사이에서 흰 띠를 착용하는 단군의 속신제(俗信制) 전통은 그 후 세대에 걸쳐 지속되었다. 역사적 기록에 따르면 고구려 사절과 일본의 아스카, 나라 시대의 사람들도 흰색 벨트를 착용했다. 셋째, 한복의 주름치마는 넓고 볼륨감 있는 실루엣을 특징으로 한다. 반면, 한나라와 송나라 시대의 귀족 가문이 입었던 의복은 날씬하고 볼륨감이 부족했다. 넷째, 한복은 피발좌임(被髮左衽)과 다양한 모자가 특징인데 단군의 편발개수(編髮蓋首)의 전통 때문으로 보인다. 한복은 고대 단군으로부터 계승·발전된 한국 문화의 정수(精髓)이다.

Keywords

Acknowledgement

이 논문은 2022년 대한민국 교육부와 한국연구재단의 지원을 받아 수행된 연구임(NRF-2022S1A5B5A17044462).

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