• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.337-343
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• 2001

This study was purposed to see how men's hair styles of Japan had changed throughout history and results of the study was as follows. There are such evidences as topknots in its primitive styles and wooden combs that several hair styles were tried already in the primitive Jomon Period. In the Yayoi period, bare topknot style without crowns and Mizura style in which hair drop down both ears were popular. In the period of ancient burial mounds, Mizura style was dominative style and varied its form and shape according to classes and status. In the Aska and Nara era, topknot-in-the-crown style in which hair bound in one as in continental style and put in crown or hood, which style was influenced by the Sui and the Tang periods of China. Since the Heian period, topknot-in-the-Ebosi style, binding style, and Karawa style as well as topknot-in-the-crown style came in sight and Sakayaki style became popular in the Kamakura and Muromachi periods. In the Momoyama period, Chasenmage style and Ichomage style were spread widely. In the early Edo era, Wakashumage style and Yaromage style as well as Ichomage style were preferred. In the middle of Edo era in which form and shape of topknot was more distinct symbol of class, status and job than in any other period, Tachmach style under the influence of the Punkin and Honda modes. Sonno style was popular in the late Edo era. There was a drastic disappearance of topknot style by the hair-cutting order during the Meiji Restoration period and civilized hair style of the Jankiri style, a kind of dishevelled hair style without making a topknot was in fashion and continued to the present.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.99-116
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• 2008

This study reviewed pertinent literature and examined relics of manggon(a headband worn to hold a man's topknot hair in place), donggot(a topknot pin), and chigwan(a topknot cover). Before the modernized short hair style, wearing a gat was an important custom. Therefore, manggon, which was used to hold a man's hair in place under the gat, was considered an essential part of the man's official dress code. Donggot is a pin that held the topknot hair in place. It was a must have for a married man, like the binyeo, a lod-like hairpin, for a married woman. Unlike gwanja, it had nothing to do with official rank, but materials were of a variety of materials, including jade and gold. The structure of the donggot was studied in three parts-head, neck and body. Major forms for the head include the mushroom, bean and ball. Bullet and half-cut bullet forms were also found. Forms for the neck include straight-neck and curved-neck. A neck with a belt around a double chin was also found. Forms for the body include the tetrahedron, octahedron and cylinder. The most popular form for silver and white bronze donggot heads was the mushroom, followed by bean and pile forms. Chigwan is also called chipogwan, chichoal, choalgyesogwan, noingwan and sangtugwan. In poetry it was called chichoal, and it used to be called taegogwan in the past as well. Chigwan was so small that it managed to hold a topknot. According to confucian custom in the Joseon period, by wearing chigwan, men didn't display their bare topknot even when they didn't dress up. When they went out, they wore another official hat over the chigwan.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.8
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• pp.86-99
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• 2010

This study considered the characteristics and use of the jokduri during the 18th century, which was shown in Ijae-nan-go written by Yoon-Seok Hwang. In Ijae-nan-go, not only the origin of the jokduri, but also its colors, materials, sizes, and construction methods are recorded, in detail. The Jokdori is assumed to have been influenced by costumes of China. The 18th century jokduri is mainly made up of black satin, and is composed of eight pieces of cloth. This looks similar to a contemporary jokduri, but the 18th century jokduri is bigger. At court during the 18th century, women decorated their hair styles higher by using the jokduri. Not only did the jokduri fix the topknot at the top of a woman's hair by wrapping the topknot, but also it raised the height of the topknot. This is different from the generally known method of wearing jokduri. Therefore, this demonstrates that there have been changes in the role and use of the jokduri over time.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.71-92
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• 2023

This study investigates the symbolism and meaning of the bead design, its relationship with the Silla culture, and the conditions of glass bead manufacturing to verify the theory of Silla's production of Silla face-inlaid glass beads with excellent artistry and technology. The research method includes investigating the design analysis, ancient documents, myths, relics, glass, and metal production techniques. Moreover, Hongshan cultural relics and other cases of inlaid glass beads were collected. There are records in the literature that the people of Makhan, Buyeo and Silla of ancient Korea people considered beads as treasures and used them for accessories. It was confirmed that all the design elements of the bead-patterned hair topknot, golden crown, birds, and flower trees were closely related to the myth of Kim Al-ji of Silla, the oviparous tales and the sacred birds and divine beasts of the north. Moreover, the pattern and arrangements were found to be similar in other Silla relics. The origin of beads and face pendants was Hongsan culture, and a stone cast for beads was discovered in Bukpyo of Gojoseon, the lower-level culture of Hajiajeom. In addition, excavating inlaid glass beads from Sik-ri tombs of Korea and a face-inlaid glass bead from Toganmori tombs in Japan confirms the theory of Silla's production. The fact that the Baekje people of ancient Korea had a glass bead manufacturing office in Japan in the fifth centuries suggests that the Silla people also had a manufacturing plant in Java, Indonesia, because this place was a crossroads of Silla's Sea Silk Road and a source of raw materials and labors with a close relationship to Silla. Therefore, the face-inlaid glass bead was indeed self-made by Silla, who possessed the tradition of bead myths and hair topknot, and the high-level skills such as gold crowns and metal inlays.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.113-128
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• 2001

The objective of this study is to research the costume of Three Han to be recorded in -$\ulcorner$Samkukgy$\urcorner$ Tongyjeon. They were written tattoos, broad head, physique, hair style, dress. accessories-lnsu, beads, head dress, shoes and cloths in Tongy-jeon. The results of this study are as fellows: Tattoos were common in Three Han. Those may be carved by chinese ink on body except a face. Broad head was Byonhan and Jinhan s customs. The physique of Mahan and Byonhan s men was tall and big. The hair style was just topknot not to put on a hat in Mahan, long hair In Byonhan and short hair for slaves in Jinhan. And then tattoos, flat head and skull, long hair style were the southern style. The dresses were two piece style-po and trousers. The shoes were made of leather. Those were the northern style. Eui-Chek, In-Su were royal gift of china. And they put valuable on beads, not gold, silver and golden embroidery cloths. This was different from other countries, And so we can find the variety of cultures at that time. The varieties came from the southern, northern, china and unique style.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.187-206
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• 1996

The Purpose of this study is to analyze the clothing excavated in Xinjinag, concerned with the study of clothing culture in Central Asia. The results are as follows : A headwear is a corn hat or round hat, the material is field, fur or woolen textiles. For hair accessories, feathers or wooden pins were used. The corn hats of the Scythians and the Huns also had same design and did not change even after being influenced from the culture of Han Dynasty. A woman's hair styles was many strips of braid, a man's hair style was a braid or a topknot. Regarding the clothing, a woman wore pull-over type and a man wore caftan for a jacket. Both a man and a woman wore widened coat and trousers as well as felt socks and leather boots, and longer socks than boots are the characteristics of the clothing of nomadic horsemen. The textiles was mainly wool, but silk was used for coats, socks and gloves in high society imported from China through the Silk Road after the 2nd century B.C. Compared with Korea clothing, a corn hat, widened coat, trousers and leather boots are similar with those of Koguryo. The influence of western culture is shown in a man's short hair, animal design, W1-Kum, a woman's pull-over type and a round neckline.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.915-929
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• 2000

As a result of research, the character of the general dress-costumes from the late 17th century to the early 18th century in Genre Paintings of DuSeo Yun and YoungSeok Cho is as follows. Firstly young women wore braided hair at the back of head and married women wore hair in the style of Unjeun-mori with Gache. The length of Jeogori (Korean traditional jacket) covered waistor shortened to waist length. The width of Jeongori was suitable, because side-seam line was straight or oblique as it comes into inner line. The width of Git was enough and Mokpan-git (shape of board) and Kal-kit (shape of knife) appeared, and sometimes used other color fabric. Sleeve was narrow and ostly folded up. Chima (Korean traditional skirt) used darker color fabric than Jeogori and the width of Chima was narrow and its length was short. Sokbaji (Korean traditional underpants) shown below were narrow and its end narrower. They were barefoot or they wore Hye (Korean traditional shoes) after putting on Beoseon (Korean traditional socks). Secondly general man's hair tie a topknot (sangtu) and put on headdres, 'Bang-lip', 'Mang-geon', hairband, 'Tang-geon' on head. The length of Jeogori became shorter from the line which covered hip to the line which covered waist. The width of Jeogori was suitable and sometimes it had a slit of side-seam line. The width of Git (neckand) was wide and the length of Git was long. 'Kal-git'appeared and it used other color fabric. The shape of sleeve was straight and narrow. They folded up their sleeves. They folded up their sleeves. They folded up their slack that look like 'Jam-bang-i'and the width of slacks was not suitable, and it was narrow. Baji (Korean traditional pants) were with or without knot, worn 'Hangjeon'(ankle band). They were barefoot and wore 'Hye'or 'Jipsin'(Korean traditional straw shoes). Thirdly a person of high birth or a low-ranked official put 'Yu-geon', 'Mang-geon', 'Gat', 'Tang-geon', 'Bok-du', 'Bok-geon', 'Whi-hang'on their head on a topknot. They wore 'Po (Shim-ui, Jick-ryeong'Jung-chi-mak, Do-po, etc)'on Baji and Jeogori. 'Po'was long and wide, it knot with 'Se-jo-dae'(string belt) or 'Po-baek-dae'(band belt). It had a slit of sideline and 'Mu'which had or had not or which were hard to confirm. The shape of sleeve was straight or very wide and its length was long. The width of Baji was wide and knotted with 'Hangjeon'and wore'Beoseon'and 'Hye'. Fourthly child's hair was short or knotted to the back of the head. The length of Jeogori reached waist line and its width was wide. It had a 'Jeogori'which had s slit of sideline. The shape of sleeve was 'Tong-su'(straight), and the length of sleeve was diverse. They put 'Baeja'on 'Jeogori'. The width of Baji was not wide. They wore them straight without or with knot, 'Hangjeon'. They were barefoot or put on 'Jipsin'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.7
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• pp.74-87
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• 2010

Jeokgwan(翟冠, crown decorated with pheasant motifs) is a queen's ceremonial headdress during the early Joseon dynasty. It originated from Bong-gwan(鳳冠, crown decorated with phoenix motifs) worn by the Chinese empress. Bong-gwan(鳳冠) was originally various types of hairpins worn with the topknot hair style, such as Bongchae(鳳釵) Hwasu(花樹) Bakbin(博鬢), but during the Sung dynasty(宋, 960-1279) these ornamental hairpins were combined with the crown worn by the empress. Bong-gwan(鳳冠) worn during the Ming dynasty(明, 1368-1644) varied according to the wearer's social status and it was worn both by the empress and other court ladies. Jeokgwan(翟冠), one type of Bong-gwan(鳳冠) worn by the queens and princesses of Ming dynasty, was given to those of the Joseon dynasty as a gift until the early 17th century. According to the portraits and remains of China, when women wore the Jeokgwan(翟冠), they were supposed to place the crown onto the hair, and then, fix the crown to the hair by putting on gorgeous hairpins. The lower edge of the crown was wrapped around with Gu-gwon(口圈), which was decorated with kingfisher's feathers. There are several flowery decorations on Gu-gwon(口圈), and this style is similar to Daeyobanja(大腰斑子), a queen's ceremonial hairband during the late Joseon dynasty.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.859-879
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• 2004

As a result of research, the characteristics of the general costumes from the king Young-Cho period to the king Jung-Cho period in Genre Paintings of Mung-Hyun Oho, Yong Yun, In-Sang Lee, Hee-Eon Kang follows. First, the typical man wore his hair in a topknot(sangtu), and put on 'Bung-gu-ji', 'Lip', or a scarf on his head. The length of the 'Jeogori'(Korean traditional jacket) was long enough to cover the waist. Dress for work had side slits, and had half length sleeve Jeogori, and short pants looked like 'Jam-bang-i'. They went barefoot and wore 'Jipsin'(Korean traditional straw shoes). Dress for outdoor was 'Po' that knot at front of chest by band. 'Baji'(slacks) were with knot below knee, worn 'Hang-jun'(ankle band) and the width of slacks was suitable. They were 'Beoseon'(Korean traditional socks) and shoes. Second those in the upperc1ass and those in the military put on 'Mang-geon', 'Gat', 'Sa-bang-gan', 'Tang-geon', 'Bok-geon' on their head on a topknot. Most of them wore 'So-chang-i', 'Jung-chi-mag' or 'Do-po'. The length of Jeogori covered the waist or the hip and were tied with 'Go-rum'(ribbon). Baji was tied with Hang-jun and 'Dae-nim'. The waist of the slacks were tied with a dark colored waist-band and folded down their waist of slacks. They wore white color Beoseon and 'Hye' or dark color leather shoes. They wore 'Sup'(assistant of arm) for bow. It showed the lifestyle of the 18C with fan, 'Be-ru', 'Mug', 'Yun-jug', teacup, pot, etc. Third, child's hair was short or knotted to the back of the head. The length of Jeogori reached waist line, Git of Jeogori was 'Dunggurai-Kit'(shape of round) and other style Jeogori, which reached the hip line, had side-slit. Baji was tied with Dae-nim, and the width of the slacks is suitable. They hang 'Yum-nang'(Pocket). Final, most women worked outdoors wearing their hair in a high twisted style, or covered it with scarf. They wore Jeogori and 'Chima'(Korean traditional skirts), Bagi. They folded up the sleeves of the Jeogori. And they folded the 'Jambang-i-styled' pants to just above the knees, fastening at the waist. When they wore skirts, they also wore underpants under the skirt that went down to the knees. Most of them went barefoot and wore straw shoes, Jipsin. Through genre paintings, we can understand the ways and forms of our ancestor's clothing. And with our understanding, interest, and passion, we can be familiar with Hanbok in our daily life by succeeding and creating its peculiar style. And then we can promote the globalization of Hanbok.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.57-69
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to examine the costume represented In human clay figures of ancient Shilla dynasty. The results of this study could be summarized as follows: 1. Horse-riding clay figures of Gumryoung tomb. At first, human-A wears a brimed-triangular hat, a Jacket, a checked pants. The brimed-triangular hat is decorated with bird-feather shape. Besides, a jacket is tied with a waist belt, and the waist belt is connected with a shoulder belt and a squared block of back. Also round bells are decorated 15 in the hat, 4 In connection points of the waist belt and the shoulder belt, and 13 in the squared block of back. Human-B wears a hairband type hempen hood, a Jacket, a pants with vertical stripes. and something is rounded from right shoulder to left side. It is one of the symbols as a shaman. 2. Other clay figures. The hats examined from other clay figures are \circled1 Triangular hat, \circled2Hat decorated with bird-feather shape, \circled3 Brined hat and \circled4 Hairband type hempen hood. Next, six kinds of hair styles examined are \circled1 a topknot, \circled2 a slanted topknots, \circled3 two topknots on both sides, \circled4(round) chignon, \circled5 hair tied at the top and plastered down, and tile last, \circled6 ponytailed style on both sides. The costume examined is a jacket and a pants.