• Acta Via Serica
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.71-86
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• 2023

This article aims to reveal the history of traditional Mongolian carpeting techniques and their development and application based on archeological findings as well as related research from field researchers. Furthermore, the article highlights some of the ancient traditions in modern carpet decorative motifs and pattern designs. The paper focuses on traditional carpeting techniques, decoration motifs, pattern designs, and representations of embroidered felt carpets from Xiongnu Dynasty (209 BCE - 48 CE) elite burials. Main themes for this research are: 1. Traditional materials and techniques for making Xiongnu carpets. 2. Xiongnu embroidered felt carpet pattern designs, decoration motifs, and representations. 3. The development of modern Mongolian carpet decoration motifs and pattern designs. This research considers archeological evidence and socio-cultural factors together to hypothesize that traditional Xiongnu embroidered felt carpet techniques, main featured motifs, and pattern designs are widely used in modern Mongolian carpet design and have a significant influence on its development.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.107-118
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to be data and to help understanding of pattern of Korean, Chinese and Japanese traditional dress. The methods of this study are the study of academic literatures as well as practical study through the analysis of case studies about actual works. The summary of this study's results is like followings. First, standard of Pattern are nature, mam-made in motif object, Naturalistic, Geometric, Stylized, Abstract in motif express, Order, Disorder in pattern express. Second, a point of sameness of motif object in traditional dress of three nations were that nature and letter abstractive of mam-made is a lot. but motif of Japan was used in daily life motif of mam-made which was not in Korea and China Third, commonly, motif expression of three nations were developed Naturalistic, Stylized. but in Naturalistic, Korea was simple, plane, China was three-dimensional, Japan was expressed super realism. Fourth, as formative aesthetic of Pattern, Korea is natural, plane, simple and symbolic, China is gorgeous, three-dimensional, immaculacy, filling and symbolic, Japan is delicate, complicated, decoration and symbolic.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.682-693
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• 2013

Camouflage is evaluated by scientific principle in the fields of biology, military science, and art. It has a strong influence on contemporary fashion and means exposure with concealment. This study analyzed the visual characteristics of camouflage patterns in fashion design through documentaries and fashion photos. The fashion design results areas follow. The simple blending of a disruptive motif indicated an inaccurate repetition of a disruptive motif, the discontinuous or continuous connection of disruptive motif, the irregular repetition of a disruptive animal silhouette, the collage of a different disruptive motif, the craft of a disruptive motif and the intensive color match of a disruptive motif. It represented the maximization of complication, fantastic and fanciness. The overlap of a disruptive motif showed the overlap of disruptive print patterns with transparency and an overlap of different fabrics with a disruptive pattern. It represented spatial relationships of three dimensions as well as the maximization of visual illusion and the reinforcement of attractiveness. The blurring of a disruptive motif showed the pointage of disruptive motif, the pointage of image, value gradation, the whole blurring of a disruptive pattern cluster and stained appearance. It represented the obscurity of motif form, the uncertainty of object and double meaning. The trompe l'oeil of a partial background object showed the realistic and the painterly imitation of color and texture for partial objects through a close-up. It represented amazement and pleasure by illusion, scarcity and the decoration of surface and synecdochical remind. In conclusion, camouflage in fashion was weakened and modified from a classical military context by a unique expression of various motifs.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.851-861
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• 2013

This study analyzed the fashionable characteristics of functional fashion mask types. This study reviewed the literature on masks and analyzed fashion photos found in fashion books, fashion collections and on internet fashion sites. The results were categorized into four characteristics. Integration of structure and function showed mask designs that connected to the hood and portable items. It represented the reflection of nomadic life, liberation, obscurity and the consciousness of discomfort. Signs of playfulness showed mask hybrids and animal images, the mask hybrids and humanoid images, the printing of animal characters, body parts and unusual material hybrids. It represented the liberation from a fixed identity, the loss of seriousness, the reduction of tension and the pursuit of pleasure and freedom. The duplicity of aggression and protection showed a futuristic or aggressive helmet facemask, an enclosed mask of intensive color, and the morphological hybrid of a disgusting or aggressive motif. It represented the end of human weakness, the desire of new self-expression and the longing of superhuman power. Fanciful decoration showed masks with glittery decoration, sunglasses with luxury decoration material, a medical facemask made of lace material and fanciful printing. It showed one facet of extreme consumption, the creation of new personality and value, the pursuit of high quality and a mutual coexistence of status and anonymity.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.42-58
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine actual design cases of decorative detail in the Art Nouveau style from the end of 19th century to the beginning of 20th century, and create designs and fashion works to meet our contemporary fashion trends by means of over-decorative style, a characteristic of decorative detail. The characteristics of decorative detail in the Art Nouveau style can be outlined as follows: First, pleats appear with two major feels of solidity, undulated and curvilinear solidity based on gather(ruffle, frill/ flare and flounce) and regular and linear solidity based on linear pleats or tucks. Second, embroidery appears in various patterns developed with stitch of solid feel as well as a variety of coloration effects. Third, attachments are expressed by means of independent motif(applique, gloss effects(beads, sequins), affluent texture and mobility(fur, feather). Moreover, according to technical characteristics and expressive aspects of pleats, embroidery and attachments, it is found that decoration detail in the era of Art Nouveau is over-decoration style. Indeed, it appears in major expressive aspects such as rhythmical solid type, detailed prominence type, superficial touch type and profound volume type.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.55-68
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• 2003

The purpose of this research is to expand the realm of a button for a decorative purpose through embossing the effect and gravity of a button in fashion by designing the new ceramic buttons which are mainly used for decorative function in costume. In order to acquire a motif for the design, I analyzed several works of Gustav Klimt. As the result, those feature can be classified into the use of decorative lines, mosaic forms, and harmony of golden yellow and black, and it can be applied to buttons and clothes design. The sort of clay used in manufacturing the ceramic buttons was white clay to have high density and to diffuse light well, and press shaping techniques using plaster mold were employed. The baking was performed in an electronic kiln at $800^{\circ}C$ for the first time and at $1250^{\circ}C$ for the second time. Based on wearable designs in 2002/2003 F/W Trend of Interfashion Planning, I made three pieces of dress which could express the button's capability of decoration with effect. This is expressing a simplified form which shows up in details of and yellow and red pink were used to harmonize with golden yellow clothes. As an application of shapes of foliage in I transformed its size and form to be consistent with a jacket and a tube top. To accord with golden beige costume, I made a curve, showing up in Klimt's paintings, with golden color on a circle shape which was also a main motif in his paintings.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.663-674
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• 2019

The background of the study is to experiment with the color glass plaster technique and the resist printing technique which are newly developed with the motif of natural leaves, and to make an interior vase added with new and unique decoration by fusing with ceramic vases. First research and development method is to describe the color glass plaster technique. Second is to explain the resist printing technique and study the decoration method. Third is to examine the history and kinds of vase. And lastly, it is to design 16 vases contemporarily, and use the leaves to experiment with oxidation and reduction of white porcelain and celadon. This experiment acquired the unique color expression by yaobian, and the soft, warm brown resist printing gradation was formed around the leaves. It will get good effects and results by expanding and applying the unique experiment effects to living interior porcelain, molding porcelain, and industrial porcelain.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.1 s.215
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• pp.101-113
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to investigate and compare the characteristics of the motifs on cultural goods in In-Sa-Dong Street, Seoul, with those in Art Street, City Hall, Kwang-ju. For this study, 607 cultural goods were collected from the two cities: 265 in Seoul and 342 in Kwang-ju. Total cultural goods were classified by accessories, decoration pieces, stationery and ceramics and were studied by repetition patterns, motifs types, representative techniques, and representative types. The results were as follows. First, for repetition patterns of motifs, there were 219 simple repetition patterns in Seoul, and 289 in Kwang-ju, and 46 compound repetition patterns in Seoul, and 53 in Kwang-ju. The ratio of simple repetition pattern was higher than that of compound repetition pattern in both cities. Second, for motif types, floral, animal, letter, and graphic motifs were used far more frequently than any other motif types. Third, for representative techniques, embroidery was far more frequently used than any other representative techniques. Metallic crafts, chil-bo and paper techniques were also favored. Fourth, for representative types, realistic types were more common than abstract types.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.117-136
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to present a classification system of the hand-made and machine-made lace according to the configuration method and re-make the category and definition of lace to consider the emergence and development of major laces techniques. The re-made category and definition of the lace is as follows. The lace usually consists of ground and motifs, however, the techniques of netting and sprang are suitable for making ground than motif, so I think it is appropriate to exclude them from the category of the lace. Many scholars are excluded openwork embroidery fabric from the category of the lace. But, an openwork embroidery fabric is the basis of a needle point lace called true lace and is consist of motif and ground. I think it is appropriate to include it in the category of the lace. I think it is also appropriate to include in the category of the lace that the eyelet embroidery fabric which mimics the openwork embroidery fabric in the machine. Lace is redefined that a fabric with openwork decoration consists of motif and ground, constructed by a variety of ways such as plaiting, twisting, looping, knotting of threads or embroidering by hand or machine. The classification of the lace is presented as follows. Hand-made lace is classified bobbin lace, needle point lace, embroidery lace, knotted lace, crochet lace, and knitting lace. Machine-made lace is classified raschel lace, leaver lace, torchon lace, and machine-made embroidery laces which include tool lace, eyelet embroidery lace, chemical lace, etc.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.283-295
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• 2011

This study deals with the interchange with art that is contained in the works of Yves Saint Laurent, and it is disclosed through his works that modern fashion is part of expressive art while pursuing creative function as a work of art. The study has been performed on the basis of the references, the pictures of his works and interviews posted in domestic and overseas fashion magazines such as Vogue, Fashion News, Mode & Mode, Gap, Collections, etc. Regarding the scope of this study, it specifically deals with works he created from 1958 until 2002, when he announced his last collection. The results of the study show that with respect to Post-Impressionism, his works were greatly affected by van Gogh(who had used colors as active media in depicting his internal mental state) which gave birth to gorgeous and handicraft-like 'Couture-style clothes'. With respects to Fauvism, the works of Matisse also had an impact on Yves Saint Laurent, who added a sense of fauvism in his works through the use of colors, motif, or full reproduction of images from paintings. We see the influence of cubism upon Laurent when we examine his works of 'clothes with artistic value,' which utilized applique, beaded decoration, patchwork, embroidered patterns, relief-like ornaments, etc. using motif or objet much as we see in the works of Picasso and Braque, artists who expressed a new dimension of the formative arts. Laurent's use of neoplasticism, or plainness of painting, demonstrates a new formative art on the three-dimensional human body by using the works of Mondrian, which consist of black lines and primary colors, although generally Laurent's 'neoplastic'works differed from the works of Mondrian by more actively utilizing the lines and colors when designing dress and its ornament. In addition, the paintings and poems of surrealism artists and poets were directly used in the clothes or their images were sometimes borrowed. In order to express respect toward the spirit of surrealism and its artists, the human body motifs such as lips and eyes(which were frequently used by the surrealism artists) were applied to embroidery, printing and beaded decoration. Finally, being inspired by such Pop artists as Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein and Tom Wesselman, Laurent further emphasized the aesthetic value of the popular consumer image in his own work, resulting in the wide recognition of the designs of Yves Saint Laurent as representing the new wave of the Pop Art school.