Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회지)

The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

"Seres" Silk People Were Silla

  • Jisoo Kim (Dept. of Fashion Design & Textiles, College of Arts & Sports, Inha University) ;
  • Youngjoo Na (Dept. of Fashion Design & Textiles, College of Arts & Sports, Inha University)
  • Received : 2021.02.22
  • Accepted : 2022.01.12
  • Published : 2023.02.28
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

Romans in the fifth and sixth centuries BC referred to the people who brought silk from the Far East via the pre-Han (漢) silk road as "Seres". The Seres' colorful silk was characterized by intricate patterns and high yarn density, markedly different than thin "China silk". This study examined geographic and genealogic records and linguistic evidence and found support for the syllogistic conclusion that the "Seres" were the early Silla people. The Seres' territory in the seventh century BC was much larger than that of the Qin (秦) or Zhou (周), extending from Xinjiang to Balhae. According to literature records, Dong-Yi (東夷) invented Geum (錦) silk in the 11th century BC around Balhae, where silkworm trees were abundant. In the Han dynasty, even thin silk was rare and expensive, but in Gojoseon (古朝鮮), Geum silk was common and less valuable than beads. The Silla delivered surplus Geum silk, fur, and high-quality iron to the West. Linguistic evidence includes historical names for Silla: "Sira," "Saro," and "Sere," as well as records naming King Ruri of Silla "Seri-Ji"; and the replacement of the word "Seres" by the word "Silk" from the Goguryeo word for "yarn winder": "sil-kkury".

Keywords

Acknowledgement

This research was supported by National Research Foundation of Korea (NRF2016-R1D1A1B01015336).

References

  1. Atwood, C. P. (2015). The Qai, the Khongai, and the names of the Xiongnu. International Journal of Eurasian Studies, Department of East Asian Languages and Civilizations, 2, 34-63.
  2. Ball, W. (2007). Rome in the East: The transformation of an empire. London and New York: Routledge.
  3. Beguin, G., & Morel, D. (1999). 자금성: 금지된 도시 [Ja-Geum-Seong: Forbidden city] (J. K. Kim, Trans.). Seoul: Sigongsa. (Original work published 1996)
  4. Butin, Y. M. (2019). Old Joseon: A historical archaeology of ancient Korea (B.-d. Lee & T. F. G. Yu, Trans.). Seoul: Aeneas. (Original work published 1982)
  5. Cheong, S.-i. (2001). 실크로드학 [The Silk Road]. Seoul: Changbi Publishers.
  6. Cho, H. (2007). 목면(木綿)과 면포(綿布)의 참뜻 [Real meaning of Mokmyun and Myun Po]. Journal of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers, 19(3), 37-42.
  7. Cho, H. (2012). The word "Silk" comes from the word "Sil- kkury" used in the country "Ko-kkury". Sen'i Gakkaishi, 68(6), P-167-P-172. doi:10.2115/fiber.68.P-167
  8. Cho, H.-S. (2006). 09권 옷차림과 치장의 변천: 제2장 옷감과 바느질: 1. 언제부터 옷감을 짰을까 [Vol. 09. Changes in attire and decoration: Chapter 2. Cloth and sewing: 1. When did you start making fabrics?]. History net. Retrieved from http://contents.history.go.kr/front/km/view.do?levelId=km_009_0040_0010
  9. Choi, C.-T. (2013). A study on the name of a country Silla. The Journal of Linguistics Science, 64, 337-358.
  10. Choi, C.-T. (2017). 갑골음으로 잡는 식민사학 동북공정 [Colonial History Northeast Project captured by the Oracle bone sound]. Seoul: Book Lab.
  11. Chu, C.-H. (2017). 차탕조선: 유목몽골 뿌리를 캐다 [Chaotang Choson: Looking for nomadic mongolian roots]. Seoul: Hye An.
  12. Covell, J. C. (1999). 한국문화의 뿌리를 찾아: 무속에서 통일신라 불교가 꽃피기까지 [Searching for the root of Korean culture: From Shamanism to the blossom of Unified Silla Buddhism] (Y. K. Kim, Trans.). Seoul: Hakgojae. (Original work published 1984)
  13. Drege, J.-P. (1995). 실크로드: 사막을 넘은 모험자들 [Silk Road: Adventurers crossing the Silk Road desert] (E. K. Lee, Trans.). Seoul: Sigongsa. (Original work published 1990)
  14. Franke, W. (1977). 東西文化交流史 [East-West cultural exchange history] (W. M. Kim, Trans.). Seoul: Dankook University Press. (Original work published 1962)
  15. Good, I. (1995). On the question of silk in pre-Han Eurasia. Antiquity, 69(266), 959-968. doi:10.1017/S0003598X00082491
  16. Griffin, J. T. (1996). 실크로드와 頓煌의 寶庫 [Silk Road and Dunhuang's treasure] (H.-j. Chae, Trans.). Journal of ART History, (10), 75-84.
  17. Huang, N. & Chen, J. (2016). 중국의 비단역사 칠천 년: 역대직조와 자수품 연구 [Seven thousand years of Chinese silk history: A study on past weaving and embroidery] (H.-y. Lee, Trans.). Paju: Korean Academic Information Co. Ltd. (Original work published 2002).
  18. Jang, H.-J. (2006). The study of the culture of dyeing in Koguryo. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 56(3), 42-56.
  19. Jeger, M., Bragard, C., Caffier, D., Candresse, T., Chatzivassiliou, E., Dehnen-Schmutz, K., ... Gregoire, J. (2018). Pest categorisation of Dendrolimus sibiricus. EFSA Journal, 16(6):e05301. doi:10.2903/j.efsa.2018.5301
  20. Jeong, S. T. (2009, July 31). 흉노 선우국의 전성시대 [The heyday of the Xiongnu Dynasty]. chogapje.com. Retrieved from http://www.chogabje.com/board/view.asp?C_IDX=28467&C_CC=BE
  21. Kang, H. J. (2011, August 5). 홍산문화의 주인공은 한민족 고유의 머리인 상투를 틀었다 [The protagonist of the Hongshan culture tie a topknot that is the unique head of the Korean people]. Korean Spirit. Retrieved from http://www.ikoreanspirit.com/news/articleView.html?idxno=25441
  22. Kim, E., Kim, H.-K., Na, Y., Shin, Y., Oh, K. W., Yim, E., & Jeon, Y. (2013). Fashion textiles. Paju: Kyomunsa.
  23. Kim, C. S. (2014). 알타이문명과 요하문명론 [Altai civilization and Liao-Ha civilization]. Seoul: Pagijong Press.
  24. Kim, I.-h. (2007). 동이신화 태양을 쏘다 01 [Dong-Yi myth shot the sun 01]. Seoul: Pagijong Press.
  25. Kim, J., & Na, Y. (2019). The characteristics of Korean traditional fabric of Saekdong. Latest Trends in Textiles and Fashion Design, 3(3), 321-324. doi:10.32474/LTTFD.2019.03.000163
  26. Kim, J., & Na, Y.-J. (2022). Triangulation proves Geum brocade with the horizontal loom of Gojoseon. Fashion and Textiles, 9:32. doi:10.1186/s40691-022-00309-5
  27. Kim, J. M. (2016). 단군의 나라 카자흐스탄 [Kazakhstan, country of Dangun]. Seoul: Global Contents Publishing Group Co., Ltd.
  28. Kim, J. S. (2021). A study on the weaving technology of KyungGeum (經錦) in ancient Korea and the etymology of Sericin (Unpublished doctoral dissertation). Inha University, Incheon.
  29. Kim, S. D. (2017, December 29). 최초의 유목민 기마군단 스키타이 [The first nomads, the scythians of the horse corps]. Insight Korea. Retrieved from http://www.insightkorea.co.kr/news/articleView.html?idxno=21460
  30. Kim, S. H. (2012). 일본은 구다라 망명정권 [Japan, the regime exile of Gudara]. Seoul: Guiparang.
  31. Komatsu, H., Hayashi, T., Umemura, H., Hamada , M., Horikawa, T., Ishihama, Y., & Nakami, T. (2015). History of Central Eurasia (P.-r. Lee, Trans.). Seoul: Sonamoo Publishing Union. (Original work published 2000)
  32. Kononov, A., Ustyantsev, K., Wang, B., Mastro, V. C., Fet, V., Blinov, A., & Baranchikov, Y. (2016). Genetic diversity among eight Dendrolimus species in Eurasia (Lepidoptera: Lasiocampidae) inferred from mitochondrial COI and COII, and nuclear ITS2 markers. BMC Genetics, 17(Suppl 3):157. doi:10.1186/s12863-016-0463-5
  33. Kwon, Y.-p. (2011). The clash of civilizations and the reconciling energy art. Seoul: Doosung Books.
  34. Lee, B.-r. (2002). 高句麗와 倭의 文化交流 - 日本의 남아있는 遺蹟. 遺物을 中心으로 - [A review of cultural relationship between Koguryo and Wa - Focused on the cultural relics and remains left in Japan -]. The KoguryoBalhae Yonku, 14, 195-218.
  35. Lee, D.-I. (2019). 이덕일의 한국통사: 다시 찾는 7,000년 우리 역사 [Korea total history by Lee, Deok-Il: Rediscovering 7,000 years of our history]. Paju: Dasan Books.
  36. Lee, D.-I. (2022). 사기, 2천 년의 비밀 [SaGi, Secret of 2000 years]. Seoul: Mangwonbooks.
  37. Lee, D. S. (2016). In search of Old Joseon. Seoul: Chaekmirae.
  38. Lee, H.-C. (2016). The struggle for supremacy between the Turkic and Chinese empires for the trade on the Silk Road: from the 3rd Shandong to the 9th century AD. HanKuk Islam Non-Chong, 26(1), 31-66.
  39. Lee, H.-K. (2012). 한국 고대문화의 비밀: 발해연안문명의 여명을 밝히다 (개정판) [The secret of Korean ancient culture: Revealing the dawn of the civilization of the Balhae coast (Rev. ed.)]. Seoul: Saenyok.
  40. Lee, J. W. (2021). 옴니버스 한국사 [Omnibus Korean history]. Seoul: Korean Culture Broadcasting.
  41. Lee, K. H. (2016). 동이 한국사: 한국 고대사의 모든 비밀 [DongYi Korean history: Every secrets in the history of ancient Korea]. Seoul: Chaekmirae.
  42. Lee, M. H. (2010). 스마트 코리아로 가는 길: 유라시안 네트워크 [Road to smart Korea: Eurasian network]. Seoul: Saemulgyeol.
  43. Lee, S. W. (2018). Silk Road. AUTO JOURNAL : Journal of the Korean Society of Automotive Engineers, 40(11), 36-40.
  44. Li, J.-R. (2018). 리지린의 고조선연구 - 대륙고조선을 찾아서 [Ancient Joseon research - In search of continental Old Joseon by Li, Ji-Rin] (D. I. Lee, Trans.). Seoul: Mal. (Original work published 1962)
  45. Lim, J.-H. (2009). Gojoseon culture formation and Hongshan culture viewed through Shinsi Bonpuri. The Journal of Gojoseon & Dangun Studies, (20), 329-394.
  46. Liu, W. (2004). 황제의 나라 [Emperor's country] (Y. S. Kim, Trans.). Seoul: Sigongsa Inc. (Original work published 2002)
  47. Malinowski, G., Paron, A., & Szmoniewski, B. S. (Eds.). (2012). Serica - Da Qin: Studies in archaeology, philology and history on Sino-Western relations (Selected Problems). Wroclaw: Wydawnictwo Gajt.
  48. Min, K. J. (1984). 古代 우리나라의 機織技術 - 植物性 纖維織物을 中心으로 - [Loom technology of ancient Korea - Focusing the vegetable fabrics -]. Journal of Korean Dress, (2), 16-29.
  49. Min, K. J. (1995). 조하금(朝霞錦) [JoHa-Geum]. Encyclopedia of Korean Culture. Retrieved from http://encykorea.aks.ac.kr/Contents/Item/E0052739
  50. Min, K. J. (1998). 세계의 직물 [Textiles of the world]. Seoul: Hanrimwon.
  51. Min, K. J. (2000). 한국 전통직물사 연구 [Study on Korean traditional textile history]. Seoul: Hanrimwon.
  52. Miyaji, A., & Motamedi, H. (Eds.). (1979). Wonders of the world's museums 19: The Silk Road museum. Tokyo: Kodansha.
  53. Nagasawa, K. (1990). 실크로드의 역사와 문화 [The history and culture of the Silk Road] (J. S. Lee, Trans.). Seoul: Minjoksa. (Original work published 1983)
  54. Nagasawa, K. (1993). 東西文化의 交流 [Exchange of EastWest culture] (B.-H. Min, Trans.). Seoul: Minjokmunhwasa. (Original work published 1986)
  55. Nagasawa, K. (2010). 돈황의 역사와 문화 [History and culture of Dunhuang] (B.-H. Min, Trans.). Paju: Sakyejul. (Original work published 1987)
  56. Nagasawa, K., & Yokohari, K. (2001). シルクロード染織史 [Silk Road: The history of dyed silk fabric]. Tokyo: Kodansha.
  57. Nam, J. S. (Ed.). (2010). 흠정만주원류고 (上권) [Heumjeong Manchu Wonryugo (I)]. Seoul: Geulmoa Chulpan.
  58. National Museum of Korea. (Ed.). (1995). 알타이문명전: 광복 50주년 기념.우리의 뿌리를 찾아서 [The Altai culture: Finding our roots on the 50th anniversary of liberation]. Seoul: Author.
  59. Nelson, S. M. (Ed.). (1995). The archelology of Northeast China: Beyond the Great Wall. London: Routledge.
  60. Oh, D. S., & Kim, Y. H. (2018). 나는 박물관 간다 [I'm going to the museum]. Daejeon: Sangsaeng Publishing Company.
  61. Okauchi, M. (2016). Silk Road archaeology (C. Park, Trans.). Gwacheon: ZININZIN. (Original work published 2008)
  62. Park, C. H. (2008). 고구려의 숨겨진 역사를 찾아서, 고구리사 초.략 (제2판) [In search of the hidden history of Goguryeo, the outline of Goguri history (2nd ed.)] (S. K. Kim, Trans.). Seoul: Jisaem. (Original work published n.d.)
  63. Park, S.-h. (2011). 고조선 복식문화의 발견 [The discovery of (Go)Joseon costume culture]. Paju: JISIK-SANUP Publications Co., Ltd.
  64. Park, S.-h. (2012). Old Joseon culture and the origin of seals shown during the Hongshan Culture excavation. Asian Comparative Folklore, (49), 45-99.
  65. Park, S.-h. (2018). A costume history of Gojoseon (ancient Korean) civilization. Paju: JISIK-SANUP Publications Co., Ltd.
  66. Regis, J.-B. (2018). 18세기 프랑스 지식인이 쓴 고조선, 고구려의 역사: 18세기 초 프랑스 레지 신부가 전하는 고조선, 고구려의 역사 [The history of (Go)Joseon and Goguryeo written by French intellectuals in the 18th century: The history of GoJoseon and Goguryeo by French Father Regis in the early 18th century] (T. F. G. Yu & E. W. Jeong, Trans.). Seoul: Aeneas. (Original work published 1735)
  67. Robbeets, M., Bouckaert, R., Conte, M., Savelyev, A., Li, T., An, D.-A., ... Ning, C. (2021). Triangulation supports agricultural spread of the Transeurasian language. Nature, 599, 616-621. doi:10.1038/s41586-021-04108-8
  68. Sarianidi, V. I. (2016). Bactrian gold (B.-H. Min, Trans.). Seoul: Tongcheonmunhwasa. (Original work published 1985)
  69. Sawada, I. (2007). The story of Hsiung-Nu (S. K. Kim, Trans.). Seoul: Ifield. (Original work published 1996)
  70. Selbitschka, A. (2018). The early Silk Road(s). Oxford Research Encyclopedia of Asian History. Retrieved from https://oxfordre.com/asianhistory/view/10.1093/acrefore/9780190277727.001.0001/acrefore-9780190277727-e-2
  71. Shah, B. (2020). Kushan were not Yehzhi-based on new discoveries and reinterpretation from Chinese sources. Academia. Retrieved from https://www.academia.edu/28643805
  72. Shim, B. K. (Ed.). (2014). 잃어버린 상고사 되찾은 고조선 [The lost ancient history the restored (Go)Joseon]. Seoul: Barunhistory.
  73. Shim, B. K. (2021). 한국상고사: 환국 [Korea prehisoty: Hwanguk]. Seoul: Barunhistory.
  74. Shin, H. (2012). A study on the cultural exchange of the weaving skills and patterns witnessed in Geum-textiles between the East and West - from ancient times to the Tang Dynasty -. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 62(4), 107-122. doi:10.7233/jksc.2012.62.4.107
  75. Shin, Y.-H. (2018). A social history of GoJoseon (ancient Korean) civilization. Paju: JISIK-SANUP Publications Co., Ltd.
  76. Sim, Y.-O. (1998). 중국의 역대직물 [Chinese historical textiles]. Seoul: Hanrimwon.
  77. Voevoda, M. I., Sitnikova, V. V., Romashchenko, A. G., Chikisheva, T. A., Polos'mak, N. V., & Molodin, V. I. (1998). Reconstruction of the genofond peculiarities of the ancient Pazyryk population (I-II Millenium BC) from gorny altal, according to the mtDNA structure. Turkic History. Retrieved from http://s155239215.onlinehome.us/turkic/64_Pazyryk/Pazyryk_gensEn.html
  78. Whang, S. J. (2012). 동북아 대륙에서 펼쳐진 우리 고대사 [Our ancient history unfolded in the Northeast Asian continent]. Paju: JISIK-SANUP Publications Co., Ltd.
  79. Whitfield, S. (2001). Life along the Silk Road (S. H. Kim, Trans.). Seoul: Yeesan. (Original work published 1999)
  80. Woo, S. (2012, September 17). '제5의 문명' 요하문명은 '중화' 역사엔 없었다 [The 'Fifth civilization' The Liao-Ha civilization was absent in the history of 'China']. The Hankyoreh. Retrieved from http://www.hani.co.kr/arti/culture/book/401553.html
  81. Woo, S. (2018). The origin of GoJoseon civilization and Liaohe civilization. Paju: JISIK-SANUP Publications Co., Ltd.
  82. Yoon, N.-H. (2015). 고조선 연구: 상 (개정판) [(Go)Joseon research: I (Rev. ed.)]. Seoul: Mangwondang
  83. Yoon, N.-H. (2021). 한국 고대사 (개정판) [Ancient history of Korea (Rev. ed.)]. Seoul: Mangwondang.
  84. Zhang, J. (2010). 흉노제국 이야기: 유라시아 대륙 양단에 강력 한 흔적을 남기고 사라진 흉노를 찾아서 [The story of the Xiongnu Empire: In search of the Xiongnu who disappeared after leaving powerful traces on both ends of the Eurasian continent] (E. S. Nam, Trans.). Seoul: Ifield. (Original work published 2007)
  85. Zuchowska, M. (2013). From China to Palmyra: The value of silk. Swiatowit, Xi(Lii)/A, 133-154.
  86. 매금(寐錦) [A term referring to the king of Silla]. (1995). Encyclopedia of Korean Culture. Retrieved from http://encyko rea.aks.ac.kr/Contents/Item/E0017934
  87. 신라 [Silla]. (1995). Encyclopedia of Korean Culture. Retrieved from http://encykorea.aks.ac.kr/Contents/SearchNavi?keyword=%EC%8B%A0%EB%9D%BC%20%EB%AA%85%EC%B9%AD&ridx=0&tot=2263
  88. 绢帛 [Gyun Baek]. (2022). Baidu encyclopedia. Retrieved from https://baike.baidu.com/item/%E7%BB%A2%E5%B8%9B
  89. 綢 [Ju]. (2022). Baidu encyclopedia. Retrieved from https://baike.baidu.com/item/%E7%BB%B8
  90. 锦 [Geum]. (2022). Baidu encyclopedia. Retrieved from https://baike.baidu.com/item/%E9%94%A6/82312
  91. 缯 [Jeung]. (2022). Baidu encyclopedia. Retrieved from https://baike.baidu.com/item/%E7%BC%AF