공업화학 (Applied Chemistry for Engineering)

  • 제35권2호
  • /
  • Pages.122-127
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  • 2024
  • /
  • 1225-0112(pISSN)
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  • 2288-4505(eISSN)
한국공업화학회 (The Korean Society of Industrial and Engineering Chemistry)
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신규 화장품용 천연유래 보존제의 물성 측정, 용액 거동 및 보존제 포함 화장품의 제형 안정성

Basic Properties and Solution Behavior of New Naturally Derived Cosmetic Preservative, and Stability of Cosmetic Formulation

  • 신수빈 (동덕여자대학교 응용화학과) ;
  • 박정은 (동덕여자대학교 응용화학과) ;
  • 고나연 (동덕여자대학교 응용화학과) ;
  • 김미정 (창원대학교 보건대학원 뷰티헬스전공) ;
  • 신혜원 (동덕여자대학교 응용화학과) ;
  • 이다솜 (동덕여자대학교 응용화학과) ;
  • 김나래 ((주)비제이바이오켐) ;
  • 엄태식 (홍익대학교 화학공학과) ;
  • 정국인 ((주)비제이바이오켐) ;
  • 배준원 (동덕여자대학교 응용화학과)
  • Subin Shin (Department of Applied Chemistry, Dongduk Women's University) ;
  • Jeongeun Park (Department of Applied Chemistry, Dongduk Women's University) ;
  • Nayeon Ko (Department of Applied Chemistry, Dongduk Women's University) ;
  • Mijung Kim (Major of Health and Beauty, Graduate School of Public Health, Changwon University) ;
  • Hyewon Shin (Department of Applied Chemistry, Dongduk Women's University) ;
  • Dasom Lee (Department of Applied Chemistry, Dongduk Women's University) ;
  • Narae Kim (BJ BIOCHEM, Inc.) ;
  • Taeshik Earmme (Department of Chemical Engineering, Hongik University) ;
  • Gugin Jeong (BJ BIOCHEM, Inc.) ;
  • Joonwon Bae (Department of Applied Chemistry, Dongduk Women's University)
  • 투고 : 2024.02.24
  • 심사 : 2024.03.18
  • 발행 : 2024.04.10
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초록

화장품 보존제는 화장품의 유효 사용 기간에 매우 중요한 성분으로, 최근에는 저독성 자연유래 화장품 보존제에 대한 관심이 급증하고 있다. 본 연구에서는 기존 다이올(diol) 계통 보존제를 대체할 수 있으며 천연유래 성분으로부터 얻어진 신규 보존제(laurimino bispropanediol, LB)의 기초적인 물성을 측정하고 신규 보존제를 포함한 수용액을 제조하여 용액 거동을 고찰하였다. 특히, 신규 보존제의 수용액에서의 micelle 형성 가능성을 pyrene 분자를 이용한 실험법으로 고찰하였다. 이를 통해 신규 보존제는 상대적으로 긴 소수성 탄화수소와 늘어난 하이드록실 그룹(hydroxyl group)으로 인해 micelle 형성이 가능함을 추론할 수 있었다. 보존제의 제형 속에서의 성능을 검증하기 위해 유화력 테스트를 수행하였으며, 유기용매와 유지 성분에 대해 유화력을 지님을 확인할 수 있었다. 추가로, 점도가 상대적으로 낮은 에센스 및 비교적 점도가 높은 로션 제형에 도입하였을 때 제형의 분산 안정성이 확보됨을 파악할 수 있었다. 본 연구는 향후 새로운 저독성 천연유래 화장품 보존제의 개발 및 사용에 중요한 정보를 제공할 것이다.

Cosmetic preservatives are an important class of ingredients in terms of ensuring sustainable use and providing customer satisfaction. Recently, a great deal of interest has been drawn to the production and use of toxic-free, naturally derived preservatives. In this work, a new naturally derived preservative (laurimino bispropanediol, LB) was developed to replace the most widely used diol preservatives, such as 1,2-hexanediol or 1,2-octanediol. The basic properties of the obtained preservative were measured, and the solution behavior of the preservative in an aqueous medium was examined. The feasibility of micelle formation in the preservative solution was investigated using the fluorescence (FL) based pyrene method. Micelle formation was feasible owing to the relatively long hydrophobic chains and increased hydroxyl groups in the preservative molecules. The emulsification capability of the preservative was assessed using the Rosano and Kimura method, showing that the preservative possessed emulsifying capability in an organic solvent (benzene) and soy bean oil. In addition, the dispersion stability of cosmetic formulations, including the new LB preservatives such as essence and lotion, was demonstrated by comparing the light transmittance of the formulations. This article provides important information for future research regarding the synthesis and practical applications of new toxic-free naturally derived preservatives.

키워드

과제정보

이 연구는 한국보건산업진흥원 (KHIDI) 지원으로 수행되었습니다.(HP23C0239)

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